When searching for ‘hidden gems’ in the Cyclades, every blog promises that this is ‘Santorini, 30 years ago’. However, this is not what I would describe Folegandros to be; rather, I would describe this island as a harsh island, with loud and bold beauty, and a chic attitude. It is, also, the first island I’ve come across to have no beaches.
Here’s your guide to unlocking Folegandros and its wild beauty:
LOGISTICS
GETTING THERE:
Trying to navigate to Folegandros felt like mental tetris: like Santorini, it is far from Athens requiring a long ferry, or an expensive one, and sometimes both. Or a flight to Santorini with a relatively short commute across. One piece of advice I would pass on is to book this route in advance, or to be aware of the departure and return days, and to utilise the routes with the more cost effective ferrys.
For context: we were trying to see if we could get to Santorini from Folegandros on a Thursday. Unlike the other days of the week, there was only one €8 ferry with the remaining trips (of the exact same route) coming in at a mighty €70 each.
GETTING AROUND:
Folegandros has one (1) taxi, so be sure to arrange your transport from the port to your stay (if it is late at night, or far to walk). Luckily, there are multiple spots to rent bikes and quads from (would highly recommend) and there is a cost effective bus that does laps of the main touristic areas.
WHERE TO STAY:
When we were looking there were only 2 places left to rent (like I said: undiscovered gem), so we were lucky with the spot we got just outside of Chora (main elevated town): an apartment with beautiful sea views and a wonderful host (who lived below).
🏠: AirBnB Stay with Despina
HOW LONG TO STAY FOR:
We chose to stay for 3 days/2 nights, which allowed us to ‘see’ everything. While I absolutely loved our time in Folegandros, I would say this is the perfect amount of time to explore and would be ideally integrated into an island hopping itinerary.
EAT
For transparency: we opted for an AirBnB that had a kitchen, so we made our own breakfasts and packed lunches and beach snacks. But for the other memorable meals eaten out:
Lo Zio, gelato
A little bit more retro, and shaded by a bougainvillea, this unassuming gelateria had incredible gelato and would highly recommend their pistachio flavour!
ParaAgas, gelato
Around the corner from Lo Zio is a new ‘new age’ parlour (every flavour and pastry is gluten free). After seeing my gelato cup’s choice of flavours, they gave us each a ‘replica’ of their own pistachio and chocolate gelato try on the house. A very sweet gesture, and was able to eat 3 gelatos in the space of an hour. Would recommend the taste test.
Irini, traditional village restaurant
This was the highlight of my time in Folegandros: set in the upper town of Ano Meria is Irini’s restaurant. Run by an iconic yiayia and her daughter, this little grocery store transforms into a bustling kitchen. They have some of the ‘must try’ foods of the island, and it was honestly just such a wholesome setting with good food and energy.
O Psaromiligkas, beachside taverna
Found on Agkali beach, this beautiful setting is such a great lunch spot and swim break. The seaside taverna has a host of wholesome traditional food; be sure to try the local version of the xoriatiki salata with the village-made cheese and fresh produce.
Chrisospilia, cafe and honey shop
Honestly, just spot here and grab a takeaway coffee while beach hopping. It has awesome sweet treats and a great place to try the island’s famous sesame bars.
Chora, bars in the town
I don’t have one bar to single out, but the town of Chora has an awesome energy with loads of trendy bars with good music and cocktails. Be sure to stop and try as you walk through the old town and its stores. Including a bar that is a converted bus:
WHAT TO DO
Normally, on my greek island blogs, I would headline this section “beaches”. But given that Folegandros has very few (accessible) beaches. Here are the things I would suggest doing in your stay on the island:
Rent a quad and beach hop
Honestly, taking a bike and trying to figure out which beaches do not require a boat or 15km hike is a fun exercise (provided you have snacks), and allows you to get a more spontaneous experience of the place, and find some wildly beautiful views. We started with a drive up through Ano Meria to the northern coves, and then traced back down into the southern spots.
Sunset at the church in Chora
As you would have gathered, most of Folegandros is built on cliffs and elevated land, which means you also have some beautiful spots to watch the sun set. One being en route to Chora’s beautiful church. The trail up is quite clear but most tourists will hop over the fences and onto the more natural part of the cliffs – it’s beautiful but be careful. (Tip: walk up with a fan, it gets very hot at ‘golden hour’).
Boat day around the island
The best way to see and experience Folegandros’ coast is from the water. We opted for a last minute 4-hour trip that lapped the island and provided us with lunch and quite a few swim stops (obviously a larger boat with around 25 other passengers). It was an awesome experience!
ISLAND HOPPING
Since this is a Cycladic island, it’s an ideal stop as part of an island hopping holiday. Here are some nearby favourites that I absolutely loved:
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