Known as the ‘football’ of Italy’s ‘boot’; Sicily is a southern island just off the coast of Messina, and one seeped with ancient history and natural beauty. To be honest, you could spend an entire holiday exploring every one of Sicilia‘s cities and towns, but this guide is specifically for your time in the capital.
Here’s your guide to a few days in Palermo:
LOGISTICS
GETTING THERE:
Depending on your route, there are a few ways to reach the Italian town:
For those road tripping through the Italian mainland, there are ferry’s that connect the southern coastline to Palermo. Within the island itself, there is a reliable train system that links all the major towns, also making it easy to explore the island by rail. However, if you’re like us: a couple of travellers that looked for ‘cheap flights’ in the middle of peak season summer, you may be lucky to find a return flight with just enough days lay over to get a taste of Palermo and its incredible cuisine.
GETTING AROUND:
For those that are road tripping: take the car, it allows you to explore the further / less accessible towns and spots on the island. For the other group (like us) we opted to walk everywhere within Palermo, take the trains/buses to the further towns, and used Taxi Sharing for our airport transfers.
Just on the airport topic: private taxis tend to be €50 (one way), and the buses are about €6 per passenger (one-way). However, we a taxi sharing option at €7 each (one way) that took us directly to our location, and fetched us from our stay to the airport as well. Would highly recommend: Taxi Trinacria (Whatsapp: +39 331 429 6956 | email: info@radiotaxitrinacria.it)
WHERE TO STAY:
I’m not going to specifically suggest the place we stayed but rather share what we did and how I would approach another trip: we ending up staying on Via Roma in Palermo’s main town – the stay itself was clean and secure. However, on arrival, I found Via Roma a little bit dodgy and akin to Cape Town’s Long Street. By the end of our stay, it did grown on us and can say that the location central and energetic. However, if we were to visit again, I would look for a spot on Via della Liberta.
HOW LONG TO STAY:
We stayed for 3 days and felt like it was a nice amount of time to explore Palermo and two neighbouring towns. Anything more, I would suggest taking trains to other parts of the island.
EXPLORE
For anyone looking up ‘things to do in Palermo’, many blogs may list ‘mafia tours’ and taking day trips to the other side of the island…(lol). While this may be cool, the items listed below are the places I would recommend for a summer holiday:
Palermo, old town
I am not a fan of blogs listing ‘walk around the old town’ as a main activity. However, I really would recommend taking a walk around during siesta – when things are quieter and the light is warm. You’ll notice now the building are designed like the ones on the mainland, but are decorated and immersed in greenery. Between the cobbled little streets, you’ll also notice the signs are written in arabic, showing remnants of old influences, cosmopolitan elements of Sicily being a corridor between northern Africa and Europe. It’s a melting pot of cultural influences that create this warm and welcoming atmosphere that’s worth appreciating in its own right.
La Rinascente, department (outlet) store
If you’ve had the pleasure to shop in Italy, it’s likely you’ve come across ‘La Rinascente’ – the multi-level department store, with rooftops over a piazza and seasonal outlet sales. While Palermo was not initially a shopping destination, we were able to find some insane sales (in peak summer – unusual) in this department store, with multiple sale options (get an extra 20% when signing up for a loyalty card, for example). Just popping this here in case it comes of use to you.
Giardino Garibaldi, park
The reasons for visiting Palermo’s ‘green lung’ are a little niche: the city’s park is home to some of the largest and oldest fig trees in Europe. It also has statues of various political figures and a pond full of disgruntled turtles. Honestly? Give it a walk through just to see how insanely huge the trees are.
Quattro Canti, square
We stumbled upon this by chance but such a beautiful spot: it’s an intersection with beautiful carvings in the corner buildings, with each side directing you to buzzing restaurants. Highly recommend visiting at sunset, and after dinner to hear the local artists sing.
Teatro Politeama Garibaldi, theatre
Really just a pretty building in the middle of Palermo’s ‘high street’
Cefalu, beach town
This is one of the most famous beach near Palermo: it’s easily accessible by train and offers a vibrant energy for a very chaotic long sandy beach. We got to experience the town in August (in peak summer) and made the most of the busy beach time. Apart from hunting for a spot of the sand:
You can also visit the main Cathedral in the town square. For the Greek Orthodox, you’ll notice the Hellenistic influences in the icons and mosaics inside:
Mondello, beach town
Another ‘infamous highly recommended’ beach (accessible by bus); it’s great for a short day trip cool-off, and cute to experience the seaside vibe. But my favourite part was:
La Fontanella, Grocery Store (sandwich bar)
This tiny mini-mart in the middle of the neighbourhood had a sandwich bar with the best fresh produce. Our main man tipped up a great lunch for us that we got to take to the beach and enjoy. Highly recommend!
EAT
Honestly: Sicily was my favourite Italian city for food. Super tasty and the most affordable (have you ever heard of a €3 Aperol Spritz?):
SICILIAN SPECIALITIES:
Cannoli & Co., cannoli & granitaria
This institution claims it opened in 1024, and has definitely used the 1001 years to refine their offering of the nicest Sicilian sweets; from granita and brioche, to cannolis and gelato. It’s worth a try while hopping through the touristic part of the old town.
Ke Palle, arancini store
One of Sicily’s most iconic foods is an arancini: a fried ball of rice encasing a filling or flavour. This spot came up in every review and seemed to draw quite a bit of attention. Give it a look and try the many options available; from classic to contemporary choices.
Cappadonia, gelateria
Alec became obsessed with this gelato and we ended up returning every night. Their granita (almond and pistachio) was also amazing and super refreshing.
PIZZA:
Timilia, pizzeria
This was my favourite pizza spot and offered the most incredible gluten free pizza bases at no extra cost. Absolutely would return and get the classic ‘margarita’ with anchovies. Also quite affordable at €9 each (don’t convert to Rands, compare to other Italian cities).
Mastunicola, pizzeria
Now this place was a lucky find: initially guided by a google review we ended up at some fancy pants restaurant with one occupied table. For whatever reason, this spot only offered gluten-free pastas and we had our hearts set on pizza for the final night. The waiter was kind enough to suggest the spot that he and his friends frequent and I’m so glad we listened: Mastunicola is a contemporary but so unbelievably good pizzeria on a side road. Absolutely loved it and would recommend.
Pizzeria Frida, pizzeria
We were only surrounded by Italians here and they served gluten-free pizza too – with the option to order any style pizza requested. Very quaint spot in the middle of a residential square, and such lovely (feisty?) service. Would return!
EXPLORE BEYOND
For those looking for more Italian destinations, explore the mainland further:
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